Top value picks from the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux tasting
Hats off to the winegrowers who braved the harrowing 2021 vintage. With a brutal April frost that resulted in significant losses and a wet summer that plagued many estates with fungal disease, it’s unsurprising that many journalists predicted a poor vintage. Some growers chose to harvest early to avoid the rains predicted for early October; however, for those who didn’t, unexpectedly dry weather allowed for a harvest at perfect ripeness.
At the NYC Union des Grand Crus de Bordeaux tasting I attended last month, the result of winemakers’ efforts under demanding conditions was a packed ballroom full of reserved, lower-alcohol wines from a vintage that much of the wine press seems to have dubbed “classic.” I’m inclined to agree. While the vintage’s hit-or-miss nature was very much on display—with many wines lacking ripeness, concentration, and body—others impressed with their restraint and delicacy.
Here are my top value picks for 2021’s vintage along with brief notes. These wines stood out not only for overall quality, but for their quality-to-price ratio and accessibility to the drinker with the two-digit budget. Prices are U.S. average pre-arrival prices listed on Wine Searcher as of this article’s publication date; note that these averages include case prices.
2021 Bordeaux: Top values
Château La Croix de Gay (Pomerol, $34): This wine opens with a brambly bouquet, with prominent oak notes of coconut and baking spice. On the palate, it features concentrated black cherry, high acid, and smooth, grippy tannins. This one should suit Bordeaux drinkers who prefer a more international style.
Château Grand-Puy Ducasse (Pauillac, $35): For quality-to-price ratio, it’s always hard to beat this fifth growth, and its 2021 wines more than live up to that reputation. An intensely earthy, herbaceous nose gives way to a palate full of concentrated ripe raspberry, and a chocolatey, mineral finish. While its firm tannins and acidity need bottle age to show at their best, I wouldn’t say no to drinking it now; its intensity, ripe fruit flavors, and medium body balance these elements enough that it makes for pleasant early drinking.
Château Pichon Baron (Pauillac, $143): A bit more expensive than the other value picks, but this super second is a perennial bargain in Pauillac despite its price tag. It features baking spice, tea, olive, and rich black raspberry on the nose, with concentrated, spicy fruit on the palate, silky tannins, and a medium-long finish. Aged for 18 months in 80% new barrels, its oak stands out, but doesn’t dominate.
Château Talbot (Saint-Julien, $56): Pronounced earth and mushroom notes on the nose gives way to intense black fruit, leather, and olive on the palate. It’s savory and restrained, with smooth, firm tannins. I’m looking forward to seeing how its complexity evolves in the coming decades.
Château Clarke (Listrac-Médoc, price not yet available, likely ~$50–60): Fresh cranberry and spice dominate on the nose; the palate features intensely concentrated, just-ripe red fruit and savory flavors like leather and olive, with ample acid and bold, grippy tannins.
Chateau Dauzac (Margaux, $48): The nose features mineral and earth notes, with noticeably ripe fruit. On the palate, its deep, rich black fruit is balanced by bold, almost rustic tannins; the finish is savory and spicy, with lingering chocolate notes.
Château Pape Clément (Pessac-Leognan, $84): With spice, olive, and mineral on the nose and savory-spicy black cherry, chocolate, and licorice on the palate, it manages restraint and intensity all at once, with a long finish. Its tannins are powerful and smooth. This was my favorite of the afternoon.
Château Suduiraut (Sauternes, $92): The nose jumps out of the glass with perfumed garden herb, tea, honeysuckle, melon, and ripe apple; on the palate, its candy-sweetness is well balanced by fresh acidity. I am tempted to commit the sacrilege of pouring it over vanilla ice cream.
